Welcome to The Great Fika Crawl. You are standing in the King's Garden, which was a royal kitchen garden in the 1400s and is now where Stockholm goes to sit down. That is fitting, because fika is not a coffee break. It is a verb. You fika, with someone, sitting, and you take longer than you meant to. The word itself is nineteenth-century slang: take kaffi, the old word for coffee, swap the syllables, and you get fika. Two rules before we start. First, there is always something baked. Second, nobody fikas standing up. In April the cherry trees along this avenue turn pink for about a week, and the whole city comes here to look at them and eat buns. In any other month, you have the benches to yourself.